In July Mexico celebrates the one hundred year anniversary of a dish popular around the world—Caesar salad! I used to think it was an Italian dish, perhaps named after the Roman emperor Julius Caesar. I could not have been further from the truth. In spite of the very Italian-sounding name, the concoction is neither ancient, nor from the “boot country.”
The history of the salad—like all history—is a mix of facts, lore, and the power of the official narrative. Just to be fair to myself, there is a version that claims the salad was invented in Chicago (I am from Chicago!), and was named after Julius Caesar. Unfortunately there is little evidence for this tale. The official version that has survived goes back to 1924, exactly one hundred years ago.
In the early part of the 20th century there was in Tijuana a very popular restaurateur, Cesar Cardini. They say his culinary skills were outstanding, but his popularity was motivated by another factor—a law that took effect in the United States in January of 1920. Prohibition stopped all legal manufacture and sale of alcohol throughout the 48 states, creating lively bootlegging operations north and south of the border. For those living near the borders, a trip to either Canada or Mexico was an opportunity to indulge one’s desire for alcoholic beverages. Residents of southern California, especially San Diego, found a trip to Tijuana an easy escape for a dinner out with friends where you could indulge in any cocktails. Mr. Cardini’s restaurant was just such a spot, and whether he provided two for one margaritas or not, it became a very popular place.
Two iconic images from the 1920s—the massive dumping of liquor, and a bunch of women threatening to withhold favors to men who drink. As if….
On the weekend of July 4, 1924, the restaurant was filled with customers, which created a shortage of supplies in the kitchen. According to the story, Caesar Cardini was unfazed. After checking his available ingredients, he threw a bunch of them into a bowl, added the right condiments, and whipped up the salad that carries his name. Everyone loved it.
One could claim that the overindulgence of booze on that particular evening gave customers the incentive to over-praise the salad, but that would not account for its century of popularity all over the world.
We will never know the exact ingredients used by Caesar Cardini on that fateful weekend, such as the use of anchovies or parmesan cheese, or whether the egg was raw or coddled, but the dish became very popular and was soon copied in other restaurants. There is an account from Cardini’s daughter who claimed that in the original version her father used entire lettuce leaves, giving the customers the opportunity to pick them up by the stem. One of the embellishments to the story has to do with Caesar’s brother Alex. It is he, supposedly, who added the anchovies—hated by some, adored by others. The details don’t really matter, because even today you will find different versions of the salad, and if the ingredients are fresh, most of them turn out great.
Because the salad is such a personal favorite, we have tried them in most of the restaurants we frequent in San Miguel. The best are those made tableside, where you can watch the server add the ingredients one by one, particularly when made inside a giant parmesan bowl instead of a wooden one. And of course, it’s even better when you take the effort of making one at home. In case you think this is too much work, here’s a tip. Get Cardini’s Caesar dressing (available online), add a little bit of anchovy paste, and you have a pretty authentic dressing in a bottle!
And, by the way, the Tijuana restaurant is still there inside the hotel by the same name. A potential overnight trip from SMA.
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